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In exceptionally simple terms, there are three main tactics employed. You need to be able to switch techniques almost instantly as the course of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This is comprised of creating a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at a minimum as thick as you might manage, to barricade in your competitor’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most acceptable procedure at the begining of the match. You can create the wall anywhere within your eleven-point and your 2-point and then move it into your home board as the game continues.
The Blitz
This involves locking your home board as fast as possible while keeping your opponent on the bar. i.e., if your opponent rolls an early 2 and moves one checker from your 1-point to your three-point and you then roll a five-five, you can play 6/1 6/1 8/3 8/3. Your challenger is now in serious difficulty due to the fact that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have locked half your inside board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have 2 or higher checkers in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a position consisting of at least 2 of your pieces.) It needs to be used when you are decidedly behind as it much improves your opportunities. The best places for anchors are towards your opponent’s lower points and also on abutting points or with one point separating them. Timing is important for a competent backgame: besides, there’s no reason having two nice anchors and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to dismantle this right away, while your challenger is getting their pieces home, considering that you do not have any other spare checkers to move! In this case, it is more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you might preserve your position up until your opponent gives you an opportunity to hit, so it will be a great idea to try and get your challenger to get them in this situation!
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